Cracks are how water gets into the base. In this climate, filling them is the single highest-value dollar you can spend on asphalt, and it matters more than the sealer on top.
If you could only do one thing to a driveway or a lot before an Ohio winter, it would be this, not sealcoating. That is an unusual thing for a sealcoating company to say and it happens to be true.
Sealer is a surface coating. It protects sound asphalt from sun, salt, and surface water, and it is genuinely worth doing. But an open crack is not a surface problem. It is a direct channel from the sky into the base underneath the pavement, and the base is the part you cannot repair cheaply.
Water gets down that channel, saturates the aggregate base, and freezes. Frozen water occupies about nine percent more volume than liquid water, so it pushes outward in every direction, lifting and separating the pavement around it. Then it thaws, leaving a slightly larger void and a slightly wider crack, and the next rain fills it again. Toledo goes through that cycle dozens of times a winter. That is how a hairline crack becomes a half-inch gap in three years, and how a half-inch gap becomes a pothole in five.
The cold-pour crack filler sold in a jug at a big box store is not the same product, and the difference is not marketing.
Cold pour is a liquid emulsion that cures by evaporating water out of itself. Because it loses volume as it dries, it shrinks back down into the crack, and by the second freeze it has usually pulled away from at least one wall of the crack, which reopens the channel it was supposed to close. It also stays relatively rigid, so pavement movement splits it.
Hot-applied rubberized filler is a solid at room temperature. It gets melted in a kettle to around 350 degrees, goes into the crack as a liquid, and returns to solid as it cools without losing volume. Just as importantly, it stays flexible in cold weather, which matters because a crack is not a static thing. Pavement contracts in winter and expands in summer, so the crack is widest in January, exactly when a rigid filler is most likely to fail.
Cracks get cleaned out first. A crack full of dirt, gravel, and dead grass gives the filler nothing to bond to, and filler that bonds to debris rather than pavement pops out the first winter. That means compressed air, wire wheel where a crack has vegetation growing out of it, and killing that vegetation rather than covering it.
The filler goes in hot and slightly overfilled so that it settles flush rather than dished. On a driveway the finished line is squeegeed flat so it does not sit proud and catch a snow shovel.
Then, if the surface is also being sealed, the sealer goes over the top. The filled cracks will still be faintly visible as darker lines under the coating on close inspection, and any company promising you an invisible repair is promising something the material cannot do.
Late summer and early autumn, which is right now. There are two reasons, and they pull in the same direction.
First, the obvious one: this work is specifically defence against freeze-thaw, so it wants to be finished before the first hard freeze. In Northwest Ohio that means having it done by roughly mid-October.
Second, the less obvious one: cracks are at their narrowest in the heat of summer, because the pavement has expanded. Filling in early spring, when a crack is at its widest, means the filler gets squeezed as the pavement expands into summer. Late summer through early autumn is the sweet spot where the crack is close to its middle width and there is still curing weather.
It is priced by the linear foot of crack, which is why it is quoted separately from sealcoating rather than bundled into one number. A driveway with fifteen feet of cracking and a driveway with two hundred feet are very different jobs even though both are 'a driveway with some cracks'.
Yes, and in some years that is genuinely the right call. If your surface is still black and sound but has developed a few cracks, filling them and leaving the seal for next year is a legitimate plan and we will quote it that way. The reverse, sealing without filling, is the one we will not do.
No. Under a fresh sealcoat they show as faint darker lines if you look for them. Anyone promising an invisible repair is describing something the material cannot do. What you are buying is a closed channel, not a cosmetic result.
Hot rubber typically holds for several years in this climate when the crack was properly cleaned first, which is the variable that matters most. The pavement will eventually move again and new cracks will appear elsewhere, so this is maintenance on a cycle rather than a permanent fix.
Sealer needs pavement above about 50 degrees and rising, no rain for roughly 24 hours on either side, and daylight to cure in. In Northwest Ohio that puts the season between late April and roughly mid-October. After that, cold nights and heavy morning dew stop it curing properly. Anyone offering to seal in November is selling a coat that will peel.
Twenty four hours, and forty eight is better if the weather is cool or damp. Foot traffic is usually fine before vehicle traffic. The one thing to avoid for the first few days is turning your wheels while sitting still, because power steering scuffs fresh sealer.
We are setting up general liability cover as part of forming the business, and no commercial work gets booked before it is in place. Ask us where that stands when you call and you will get a straight answer rather than a brochure line.
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